It's worth noting at the outset that I took the exact same trip (clockwise Rimu) 11 years ago, when Ash and Tory were barely teenagers and my legs and lungs were a lot stronger. How things have changed! and how much they remain the same!! In terms of change: the South Island is busier, more built-up and more heavily trafficked than ever before. I saw scores of RVs where a decade ago there where almost none, fleets of tour buses, and steady streams of traffic on roads that were once quiet country lanes. Milford Sound was abuzz with boats on the water and single-prop airplanes overhead, and Hokitika (among other towns) was overrun with tourists - like us! All of which is to say, in some ways New Zealand has become the victim of its own success: the very attributes that most attracted visitors have been diminished by those same visitors arriving in such enormous numbers. In terms of things remaining the same: Active Adventures continues to shine, both in terms of its itinerary and the high calibre of its guides. The isolation and views afforded by Braemar Station make it an ideal opening chapter for the trip (and far less punishing at the outset than the alternative of hiking the Southern Alps beginning day two); the west coast is still as thrilling in its scenery; and the Angelus Circuit remains a breathtaking (literally!) capstone on the fortnight. Ash and Tory, meanwhile, were extraordinarily attentive, involved and knowledgeable, keeping everyone in high spirits and ensuring that those of us who needed some kind of accommodation got it without drama or self-consciousness. Both women are exceptional at what they do.

| January 1970